May 14, 2003
Finally up to date!
After waking up early (8:30 is early for us so far on this trip), we grabbed the usual breakfast before heading out for Cerro Catedral for a trip up the tram to check out the area from high above. The trip was quick and we soon found ourself in the parking lot. We asked about where we could find the tram and a man in the parking lot directed us to the building about 200m away. We suited up with Michaela in the backpack and made our way to the base of the tram, where we learned it was closed for repairs and would be unavailable until after we leave Bariloche for Calafate. Oh well.
Next: on to the Colonia Suiza (Swiss Colony) where Margarita remembered having the most delicious pastries 28 years ago when she last visited. Again, the trip was relatively quick and we were soon driving slowly through the colony. Unfortunately, because of her faded memory, changes in the last 28 years, or traveling in the off-season, the Swiss Colony was virtually empty and none of the shops appeared to be open. Scratch that one......
As we headed back towards Bariloche, we picked up a female college student hitchhiker as we headed for Cerro Otto, which would have to suffice since Cerro Catedral was closed. Along the way, we passed the Centro Atómico Bariloche (http://www.cab.cnea.gov.ar/). As we learned from one of our tourist guides, students from around the world study atomic science here and there even have a small educational nuclear reactor....in a national park!
The ride up Cerro Otto in the enclosed tram was a hefty 25 pesos per person. The views were of course spectacular, but we were getting used to them by now. Michaela loved the ride - and a large reason why is that she didnīt need to be restrained as we traveled up the mountain.
At the top of Cerro Otto is a relatively large complex that includes a confiteria, a shop selling typical tourist trinkets, a lookout area, a small theater, an art gallery (showing Michelangelo), and even a play area that included a swing, slides, merry go-round, and small play houses. We immediately took Michaela to the play area, where she had a turn on the swings and the play houses. Unfortunately, it was a bit windy and the cold became unbearable for us. But not for Michaela, who put up a fuss as we removed her from the play area.
The confiteria at the top of Cerro Otto revolves so that no matter where youīre sitting, you get to see the entire view during the course of about 20-30 minutes. If youīve been to Space Needle in Seattle (or the Stratosphere), you know what I mean - except this was on a smaller scale. We ordered two chocolates otto (hot chocolate with alcohol at 7 pesos each) plus a medialuna and a toasted ham and cheese sandwich. The alcohol was too strong for Margarita, so I ended up drinking them both. Michaela ate some, but not enough of the sandwich and medialuna.
Down from Cerro Otto, Michaela marveled at the view as the bottom literally dropped when we left the building. She stood up on the seat and looked out for quite a long time, fascinated by the sights.
As we headed back to Bariloche to head out to the Parque Nacional Los Alerces, Michaela fell asleep, which always alters our plans for where to stop. We made it out of Bariloche and nearly to Villa Mascardi before we decided to stop at a parilla for lunch. Another meal of grilled meat - and it was sooo good. This time Michaela made both her parents feel better by downing lots of food.
Once we turned off the main road towards Parque Nacional Los Alerces, we once again had an unpaved road fit for a rally car race. We quickly reached the ranger station where we paid the standard 12-peso foreigner entrance fee and 6-peso local fee. And as usual, we received a 0-peso entrance fee receipt for Michaela. This is the third or fourth time now. If the fee is 0, why even bother to print up these booklets of 0-peso tickets/receipts? I handed the ranger a 20-peso bill and waited for change, but the ranger disappeared into his hut and didnīt return with change - a first. Two pesos isnīt much, but it annoyed me. Iīll happily pay a bribe when needed, but this was much more like official robbery. Oh well. It gave me something to write about, right?
The road to the Cascada Los Alerces (Los Alerces waterfall) is open to one-way traffic in for a certain number of hours in the morning until 10 am and then to one-way traffic out for a certain number of hours until 2pm, when two-way traffic is allowed. We were traveling the road sometime around 3pm and we didnīt see another car at all. The road was definitely not fit for two cars in most places, so I was happy not to encounter any traffic.
Once we got to the parking lot for the walk to the waterfall, we noticed a hosteria/confiteria that appeared to be open and absolutely nobody else parked in the lot. Margarita had prepared me for a very long hike to the waterfall, which we both prepared ourselves for. As we prepared ourselves in the parking lot, we were greeted by two very friendly cats, which thrilled Michaela. One immediately started rubbing itself against Michaelaīs legs and both of them allowed Michaela to do what could loosely be called petting (also called grabbing and hitting). Of course, Michaela fussed when we finally put her into the backpack and got her gloves on to prepare for the long hike. As we set off, Margarita said that she wanted to take it slow as it would be a long hike.
Well after a short hike, it became very apparent that it was a very short hike and not the long hike that Margarita had remembered and prepared us for. The falls were beautiful, as we expected. The water was wonderfully clear and the sound of the falls reverbated in the small canyon. I joked with Margarita about her memory as we viewed the falls and then began our hike back to the parking lot. At the parking lot, Michaela played with the friendly cats again while I went to grab a torta frita at the confiteria. It turned out that the smoke we thought was from the active confiteria was actually burning debris (controlled) and that the confiteria/hosteria was closed. Oh well, at least I was able to use their bathroom (no lights, but the water worked). As Margarita prepared for our departure, I picked up Michaela to get a closer look at a horse that was grazing nearby, but the horse moved away as we approached. Meanwhile, Margarita was trying to keep the cats out of the car. Yes, the cats were so friendly, that they actually went into the car when we the doors were open.
As we headed back to Bariloche, Margarita and I knew that we had enough time to take Michaela to a play center that we saw previously bordering the lake. This play center was part of a larger complex that included a restaurant and shops.
For 3 pesos, Michaela got to spend about 30 minutes in a big container filled with plastic balls. When we first set her inside, she seemed uncomfortable and wanted to get out, but soon she was enjoying herself, mostly by grabbing the plastic balls and attempting to place them in her mouth. There was also a small trampoline which she didnīt enjoy much and a large area in which to crawl. As soon as she saw the tunnel, she quickly crawled into it and through it as Margarita gave chase (we didnīt know where it went - but it was all in a controlled area). After our 30 minutes were up, we spent a peso each for rides in a little jet that moved back and forth and a dragon that tilted back and forth.
Tomorrow we head to the airport to return the car and for our flight to Calafate. Chau for now......
Posted by mike at May 14, 2003 08:08 PM